Dublinised!

An evening spent pub-hopping in Dublin might end up being a tad expensive but the proverbial Irish humour is for free. In fact, it is ubiquitous: there’s wit on display boards outside certain pubs; in the audio at the Wax Museum; and of course, all conversations are punctuated by humour. So it’s not odd to ask if the Irish are born with it. “Probably yes,” says Michael, an old hand at a local pub. “and Thank God for that – it’s helping us survive these troubled times,” he adds thoughtfully.

Times are tough in Ireland, not quite as bad as the catastrophic potato famine which racked the country in the early 20th century, but the economic crisis has taken no prisoners. Surprisingly, even as the dailies dish out gloomy fare about job cuts, there isn’t a pervasive air of resentment. “Everything will be fine. Whatever happens, happens for the better,” says Michael with defiant optimism. It’s not easy to get the Irish down.

Almost as uniquely Irish as their sense of humour is a pint of Guinness. The stout seems to be the answer to all your queries…and I suspect this dark viscous brew is in fact the secret ingredient that makes the Irish so impervious to life's vagaries! You hear so much about it from the Irish and the guidebooks that you think it might almost be criminal not to visit the famous Guinness Storehouse and unethical not to savour this lauded drink. And what if, like me, you find it a bit too bitter? Well, you can always use the Irish humour to get away!

But the craic (fun), beer and pubs are not what Dublin is all about. It’s not a city that wears its charm on its sleeve and will get under your skin when you’re not looking. As with all old cities, the best way to get beyond the superfluous touristy track is to explore the city on foot. I’m a bit late to reach this realization: only after I’ve blown a precious 16 Euros on the city tour bus ticket. While the tour hardly does justice to the sights and sounds of Dublin, it is a prudent option if you’re short on time.

The hop-on-hop-off bus takes you to as many as 22 spots across the city. I get off near Oscar Wilde’s statue – the first stop on the route. Dublin has an obsession with statues: scattered all over the city and sometimes in the unlikeliest of places. Wilde would have been proud of this one: it’s as much a homage to the man as it is to his eccentricity –lying supine on a stone in a park right across what used to be his house ( and is now, appropriately, a library). Looking at people lounging about on a perfect sunny day, I’m tempted to park myself on a bench and let Dublin’s literary air and Wilde’s presence get my poetic juices flowing.
One cliché that rings out loud in my head is that there is something for everyone here: there’s history in the well-preserved mansions, castles, cathedrals and fascinating museums; the other side of the Liffey River offers something to those looking for a glimpse into the Dublin of yore. The city has upmarket shopping streets for shopaholics and souvenir hunters; theatres and avenues to satiate the most ravenous culture fiends; beautifully manicured parks for those who just want to lie about and soak in the atmosphere which inspired some of the greatest writers ever. Whatever your area of interest might be, there’s a tour for you in Dublin. If you are looking for unusual insights on the city, I recommend walking tours with Pat Liddy, an historian well-versed in Dublin’s everyday life.
And as evening comes, there’s probably nothing better to do than stand among Dubliners at the Ha’penny Bridge over the Liffey. The river divides the city into northern and southern part. On the north side, which appears to be unplanned vis-à-vis the southern part, is O'Connell Street intersected by shopping streets like Henry Street and Talbot Street. On the south are St. Stephen's Green, Grafton Street, Trinity College, Christ Church, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and many other attractions. The river goes down as my favourite spot in the city.

It’s difficult to put a finger on just what is so heartwarming about Dublin. Certainly, there are no dearth of reasons to fall in love with the city: whether you’re just walking about the cobbled pathways in the older part of town, chatting with complete strangers in the parks and gardens, gulping down copious amounts of Guinness in these amazingly convivial pubs, watching a play, or just sitting near the Liffey and letting it all pass you by, this city will charm you inside out.

Till then, cheers! May the luck of the Irish lead to happiest heights and the highway you travel be lined with green lights.

The article is also published here: http://in.lifestyle.yahoo.com/blogs/traveler/doubly-charmed-dublin-050434860.html

In awe of Istanbul

I don't remember how and when the fascination for Istanbul began and why it came into my list of 'Must Visit Destinations'. Whenever I was asked to name one place I wish to travel to, Istanbul has always been the prompt reply. I read books on Istanbul; glared at photos of the city in magazines; and just dreamt of standing in front of the Blue Mosque. Call it dramatic but it seemed like there was some voice calling me to Bosphorous and this fascinating mosque. 

The Blue Mosque (Pic taken from a blog)

So when Istanbul was suddenly added to the itinerary of my trip to Izmir, Turkey, the voice seemed to ring louder in my mind.Being a Piscean, trusting intuition and hearing 'voices from within' comes naturally to me and I had every reason to believe in it. I wasn't expecting unearthly emotions...or may be I was.

However, it was a moment less than ordinary when I finally stood inside the mosque. I couldn't feel anything; there was no emotion. Disappointed, I tried seeking an answer to this blankness. The reply I heard from 'the voice' didn't quite answer my question but made Istanbul more intriguing than before. It is even more special to me now.  

You need not 'hear voices' or get intuitions to visit Istanbul. If you think it is this mesmerizing place that will leave you in its awe for days, weeks, may be years, you are right in thinking so. It's exactly as breathtaking as you imagine it to be. 

Munnar: A green escapade

It must be because of Munnar that Kerala is most sought after honeymoon destination in the country. Just keep your picture postcard imagination of the backwaters in your pocket, forget the humidity, and wrap woolens around your neck to enjoy the romance of the hilly climes at Munnar in God’s Own Country. 

The hills are covered with greenest of carpets

Like any typical backpacker I was not set to witness the matchless beauty of these hills when I was leaving Cochin’s humid climate. Soon the world was going to change. And it really did.  Perhaps it was this ‘unpreparedness’ that further added to the exquisiteness of Munnar. Imagine entering from a city milieu to the kingdom of valley where the mountains are covered with the greenest of carpets and the red dust road crawls like a snake in a sprawling forest spread between the deepest of valleys to the regions highest peaks.

While I don’t quite agree with the title ‘Kashmir of the South’ because it’s like comparing apples with oranges, or rather cinnamon in this case, Munnar is certainly impressive enough for Kerala to boast of.

Driving through a surreal rippling mosaic of yellow-green tea bushes, you already know that tea plantations are Munnar’s claim to fame! One whiff of the potent tea leaves is enough to indicate why Munnar tea is perhaps the most touted beverages the world over.

The dramatic spice garden

Spices, of course, are as famed as the coconut trees and backwaters in Kerala. There are several

spice gardens that allow you to take a close look at the spices that add flavour to your food. You can buy them and also educate yourself about spices, herbs and ways to know how to select good quality ones.

There are a number of well-run spice gardens all over. The one I went to was a little dramatic. Standing in a tree house inside the garden, for a moment, it felt like walking into a movie…what with the misty mountains in front of me, cool breeze…and music from the 90’s Bollywood movies being played out loud in the garden. Of course we got it, it's was after all a honeymooners paradise!

Munnar comes alive in the mornings. Do not miss waking up early and watching the sunrise. Take a long walk in mountainous Munnar and soak in the idyllic surroundings and feel the magic.

The Touristy places:

Eravikulam National Park: For those who love the flora and fauna; get up close to some of the world's last Nilgiri tahr (a variety of mountain goat or ibex). For the more adventurous, there’s 8,841-ft Anaimudi Peak, the highest peak in south India


Spice Gardens: Buy them and also educate yourself about spices, herbs and ways to know how to select good quality ones

Tea Plantations & Tata Tea Museum: Tea plantations are beautiful. You'll get ample spots to click 'FB perfect' pictures but the museum, according to me, is over-rated. It has a miniature tea factory, which tells you about the nuances of tea cultivation and manufacture, alright. But you wouldn't find the 'original' cup of tea as they serve only machine-made tea (read pseudo chai).

Must Do in Munnar: Do not miss the opportunity to watch Kathakali and traditional martial arts, Kalarippayattu. I watched a spectacular performance at Punarjani Traditional Village. At first, the charge of Rs 200 for each performance seems too much but you’ll change your mind once you see the performances.

Avoidable: The Echo Point – There’s nothing here except ‘professional’ photographers getting after your life to get a ‘bollywood shtyle’ photo.

Letter From McLeodganj

Dear L,

The rest of the gang is sleeping... physically tired of exploring Mcleodganj the entire day. I am sitting outside my hotel room from where I can see the silhouettes of mountains and lights suggesting life running through them. However, I cannot see the white mountain. The one covered with snow...that was till this evening standing tall behind the dark mountain. I call it the mountain of peace.

It’s amusing how we look for peace and happiness in the Mcleodganjs of the world. Settled far away from the hustle & bustle of the big cities we live in, we assume life is peaceful, happy and simple here. The cab driver we met today smirked when he heard this and told us his story. Equally complex, equally hard…perhaps more painful than our stories that suffocate us in the big city.

We at least have the hills to run to. What are we crying about? What are we cribbing for? Only for the White Mountain we all can't see because of the darkness in our minds. It’s within and hence most difficult to find.

Wish you happiness n peace always.

P

Musings of a traveler: Karnataka (Part 1)

Acquainting the unknown is an adventure a traveler lives for. You embark upon a journey to a new place and are sure of bringing back unforgettable memories, unearthing mysteries of the unfamiliar land. But sometimes… you are not prepared to experience something so beautiful. You’ve heard or read enough yet the experience is so striking that you want to bottle it up in a jar and take out little proportions…to take in one at a time. This is about one such journey. Perhaps, it sounds too quixotic. Perhaps it was.

There couldn’t be a better morning than waiting for dawn to break at a beach. It’s a little over 4:30 a.m. “I have always wanted to wake up on a beach,” exclaims L. ‘This is the best morning ever,” I say settling my backpack on the dirty Gokarna beach. Two gorgeous days lie behind us and in front of us is the spectacle of night gently breaking into day and playful waves welcoming it. And it does the magic.

The night was at its darkest best when we got off from the bus we took from Hospet (Hampi). All we knew was the place is called Ankola. May be it was, may be it wasn’t. It was too dark to confirm. A bunch of foreign women travelers gave us company. We unanimously decided to hire a cab to Gokarna. We did not have any option but to take the only one standing in front of us. So here we are. While rest of the group thought it appropriate to look for a place to stay, we chose sipping a cuppa listening to the sound of water. It has to be the best dawn ever.

Daylight has just intervened. We move towards the town to look for a place to dump our bags and get familiar with Gokarna. It is a cozy little town…rain-washed last night. The damp roads lead us nowhere…when we smell food. It is little early for that but ‘foodie’ instincts seldom take note of timings. Idli sambhar and Upma taste better when you are headed nowhere.


We’re now heading to the ‘popular’ Om Beach which is a little far away…about Rs 100 to be precise. And a friend had suggested that Namaste Café is the best place to stay in Gokarna.

Unimpressive budget room

It is impressive, without doubt. But the Rs 700 rooms aren’t that attractive; Rs 200 ones are certainly not but   work very well for budget travelers’ pockets. The common bathroom’s a mess. But you can always work these things out right? There are better washrooms in the ‘expensive’ rooms’ arena. Secret trips there are obviously possible. And this is hardly an issue compared to the attitude of the receptionist at the front gate. L and I have a quick discussion on how friendly Hampi was and how this place also is…but only if you throw in the moolah. Foreign travelers can expect a royal treatment. Desi ones can too if you aren’t on a ‘budget’ trip. The room isn’t flattering but the ambience of the place is. It’s like living in a cottage in the middle of a jungle on a beach!

Our abode @ Namaste

Namaste Café isn’t exactly how fabulous it is described to be. But I don’t think L and I want too much at this point of time. We have our cups of coffee sitting almost at the seashore. There are moments of silence and we both know that this isn’t even half of what we have already lived in Hampi. Hampi was surreal. (I’d do a flashback but after a while). For now, after two rounds of coffee, a plate of omelette and scrambled eggs each and engaging conversations, we decide it’s time to explore the other 3 beaches in the vicinity.

What’s the way of seeing the rest of the shores – Kudle, Paradise and Half Moon? Climb uphill, come down and voila…there’s a beach. Again climb another hill, go down and yet another. Determined to see all of them, we begin the trek. Since it is rainy, we borrow an umbrella from the unfriendly receptionist. The big black umbrella breaks just as we start. Serves her right, I think.

Kudle Beach

It is a tiring one. But L and I are having a good time…wondering often if we are lost. We cannot, obviously, ask for directions. Because there are no people around. We work our way out and meet the Kudle Beach. This one’s quite pristine. We are walking, letting the water touch us, posing to click and just being ourselves. L moves deeper in, as though answering the call of the sea. She comes back in time, while I am still lost in my chain of thoughts… And it has started pouring. Wow, it is raining heavily. We’ve rushed into a shed which calls itself a restaurant. It’s a perfect romantic setting. The food is nice…the guy sitting across is nicer. Much older, attractive but an unflattering taste of books…so we shift focus.



Honestly, Hampi-experience has been so intense that everything else seems dull. We decide to give rest of the beaches a miss. So, a climb up and down and we are back at Namaste. We are here with a slight problem. We have one day with us. In a bid to make sure we spend it in the best way possible, we have spent hours and hours and rest of our money to book tickets to Karwar. This was not one of the best decisions we took, for more reasons than one. But there is nothing to regret really. It made for one hell of an experience.

The Glorious Past

Lothal. Doesn't it ring some bells? It does for me... The bells that used to bring me back from some dreamland while the History teacher did her best in educating us about this city of Harappan civilization. I couldn't care less about it then.

And I guess I didn't find it intriguing enough even during my half-a-year stay in Ahmedabad, two years ago. But as I travelled back to Gujarat last month for a brief visit...I walked through a lot of roads -- re-living the moments, cherishing the good old days, feeling nostalgic about the past...when we decided it was time to create some new memories.

Lothal was the obvious choice. Perfect distance for a long bike ride to a place that is reasonably mysterious. Details about the excavated site and serendipity of finding a small royal palace were purely coincidental. Read on...the story of Lothal and the palace that would possibly become a popular tourist site soon...

The word Lothal means 'the place of the dead'. The engineering and design of the place is a marvel . When the Harappans came here around circa 2400 BC, the first challenge for them was to ensure safety of the town from high intensity annual floods. But they had already taken lessons from their similar experience in Mohenjodaro and Harappa. The dock as built away from the main current to avoid silting but at the same time gave ships access to the dock during high tide.

They divided the entire town into several blocks of 1 or 2 metre-high platforms of bricks. The city was divided into a citadel/acropolis, where the ruler lived, and the Lower town. Both divisions enjoyed all civic amenities like baths, underground drains and water.

This obviously indicates that the Harappans highly believed in planning and orderliness. And that is how they lead to development of uniform system of weights and measures as well as standardization of goods n services. Standardization lead to expertise and prosperity in business. But nature wasn't perhaps too much on their side as they had to deal with minor floods followed by a large scale destruction...

Imagine standing on the ground where a whole civilization lead a prosperous life eons ago. But it's sad to see how badly it is managed now. It's just a large site seemingly left orphaned. I am curious to see Harappa in Pakistan too see how they have treated it. Authorities here say there aren't many visitors. Pity. Worse is that there isn't any food either. Admiration of survival of this site and figuring out the baths and other divisions there...has left us starved for food.

We remember reading a board saying 'Heritage Hotel' some 4 kms away. We tell each other not to expect much and have something to give the surging hunger some rest and may be we can hog better food when we hit the city. Narrow lanes tell us our instincts were right. But when we reached the 'hotel'... we are in for some heavy dose of surprise! Surprising location....surprising interiors and even more surprising menu.

It is the Uthelia Hotel...which seems to have some European influence in its architecture. We are told the place is popular among foreign tourists. No wonder the menu is rich...not only in food but also in price. Rs 600 for a thali. But what a thali! It included meat after all. And finding non-vegetarian food in Gujarat is like...finding errr...a rose in desert!?Wouldn't say the food was worth the amount...but was quite sumptuous.

The hotel is right now being renovated and would soon be ready to attract more and more visitors. There are several activities like horse-riding and going off-road with hired jeeps.

In all would rate the experience 10/10. It was like a deja-vu of past days in Ahmedabad...brimming with fun while being mesmerized with royalties of some bygone era. Vibrant Gujarat would always hold a special place in my heart.

A Date With Chandigarh

If Chandigarh were a boy I met somewhere...the first impression I would have of him would be of a 'well brought-up' young man. The one who intrigues you and has the ability of making you go weak in the knees!...

No no...I don't say this imagining a tall fair well-dressed rich boy from Chandigarh. (Anyway they are mostly brats!) I say it because I am high on freshness the city emits.

This isn't the first time I met the city but I have very vague memories of it as I was too young. Being just about 250 kms away from Delhi, Chandigarh is an obvious choice for a short weekend get away. But if you are a Delhite you know it isn't an obvious choice because 'there isn't much to explore'. In case, you are not looking to 'explore' too much and just a experience peace and be away from frenzied crowd...trust me this land of Punjab is your best bet! Hailing from a place where while walking on city roads you not only have to save yourself from the snarling traffic but also from spits thrown justeverywhere...Chandigarh is heaven. A bliss. I have never seen a cleaner ISBT. It's the serenity and smell of a clean city that drew me to it.
If you find uncanny similarity between Chandigarh and Gandhinagar in Gujarat... Le Corbusier is the guy to be credited/blamed. He's the one who designed and planned the well-planned cities...and how! No matter how much navigationally-challenged people like me try...it's difficult to get lost. a) It's too small to get lost b) you have sign boards and maps everywhere...just everywhere.
I wouldn't get into the details of roses in the Asia's largest Rose Garden and beautifully arranged rocks in the Rock Garden. Roses and rocks are same everywhere. Yet there is something different about (red,yellow, orange, pink, black, white... all colours possible) roses smiling all around you. There is something about the garden Nek Chand (built with waste bangles, plates, tiles, sinks, ceramic pots..all waste possible!) that leaves you mesmerized. Pinjore Gardens is something that most visitors give a miss. My advice, go meet it during the night. You have not seen a more enchanting garden. At least I haven't! The sight was beyond my expectation. Another thing unexpected was the behaviour of the locals. I did not think, for some reason, auto-wallahs and rickshaw wallahs would be dishonest. I assumed them to have small-town honesty. Little did I know that Chandigarh is not just another small town. It is a rich man's city. All the markets I went to were mini-Connaught Place's flooded with expensive restaurants. So my dreams of having the divine Tandoori Chicken from a roadside hawker went for a toss. But I did manage to have mouth watering butter chicken from local shops in sector 8 and 9.

So like a good date with a young gentleman...I loved my date with Chandigarh. Barring a few disappointments I'd say it makes for a perfect rather than a 'I-had-no-choice' getaway.

The Sky's the Limit

Imagine: Floating high up in the air...hands let loose and looking at the world below from the top. It's a very 'birdie' feeling.

Though para-sailing over water is lot more ecstatic, it is equally adventurous over land. And before you start getting apprehensive with the thought of being suspended in the air…it is important to understand the difference between parasailing and paragliding. To bring some relief to non-impulsive adventurers and be put simply, parasailing is a passive activity while paragliding is an active one where you are required to control the wings and are technically the pilot.

Parasailing, on the other hand is a relatively simpler and equally if not more fun. Parasailing can be terrestrial or an aquatic one, with a jeep usually being used on ground and a motorboat used in water. The sailor is strapped into a harness, which is attached to the parasail and a jeep tows the parasail with approximately 100-metre rope.

All you need to do is take a few swift steps. As the jeep moves forward the parasail gains lift, which makes it ascend. And before you let your fears get better of you...things start looking up! You soon find yourself high above the ground. If you are able to control your fears, the best thing to do is let your arms loose and experience the joy of flying. Trust simple physics rules to stay airborne till the vehicle stops and the air pressure inside the parasail eases off. You have to compose yourself to ensure a safe landing.

If New Zealand or Malaysia come to your mind as you think of parasailing then come closer home. And if you still think of the popular destinations like Goa and Bangalore…then come closer still to the National Capital Region. Kanwarsika just about 35 kms from Gurgaon is your destination for a refreshing adventurous weekend.


While there are a lot of organizers we chose ‘i Rove Adventure Foundation’ for arranging the activity for us. You require a minimum of 10 people in a group for the activity to be arranged. The cost is charged lump sum and not per head but roughly comes to around Rs 450 per head if you are a group of 15 people.


The difference in exotic locales of destinations like New Zealand might perhaps lie in the picturesque view they’d offer. Kanwarsika, on the other hand, has nothing to offer but a huge piece of barren land with nothing else in sight. So when you are up…up and away it is the uplifting experience you completely focus on!




The height at which you go above depends a lot on the length of the rope and wind conditions apart from your body weight. On the day of your activity, check the weather report and avoid weather conditions like rain, fog or an approaching storm—these naturally increase your chances for a parasailing accident.

This Time Last Year...

...I was surrounded with beauty, colour and peace. It's been a year since I met a vibrant autumn Sweden. Since then I have thought about thousand times over. Haven't met any place as graceful as it again so far. Few small trips here n there but a fascinating one as Stockholm is on some other track perhaps...

Jungle Calling - Jim Corbett

“Pack your bags. We are leaving for Corbett at 6 tomorrow morning.” The jungle was calling. With a two-day break from work staring at us and a
dozen plans made and cancelled, we finally zeroed in on Jim Corbett.

More than visiting the wild, this trip was meant to be a respite from a monotonous routine. So instead of staying in a cottage somewhere inside the jungle, we chose a lush resort offering everything from perfect rooms and clean pool to a sports room and decent food. That certainly isn’t a nature lover’s complete delight. You are close yet far. But there is something so fascinating about the Corbett that leaves you enthralled even as you are near it.

Corbett is a six-hour drive from Delhi that is if you don’t take frequent breaks (like we did) and know your way right (we didn’t). We took longer than that and couldn’t help but pounce at the lunch like the hungry tiger, we all were hoping to see. The safari requires a permit from the forest department and the timings change with season.

Entering the jungle in evening was highly improbable so we decided to spend time swimming and chit-chatting. But when you are in conversation with the wilderness all you want to do is sit silent and stare at the untamed beauty in front of you. And as night descends the voices around you seem more real and you become aware of the predators some or many kilometres away. We lit a fire and sat around it joking about the rendezvous with ferocious animals of the jungle the next morning.




If darkness makes the jungle intriguing then early hours of dawn make it even more charming and mysterious. Sitting on a jeep we were ready with our cameras to quickly take a snapshot of whatever we saw of over “580 varieties of birds, 25 reptile species and 110 kinds of trees”.


They say you could spot a tiger if you are lucky. Guess we were quite an unlucky lot. We saw nothing to boast of except a few beautiful birds, wild hen, spotted deer and some admirable flora. It was only later we were told that the bright pink I wore like other members of the group are a strict no-no.

Then there are a few tricks and signs that alert you of animals around. So, it’s best to have a guide or someone familiar with the jungle with you when you are out on a hunt for wild animals. But even if you don’t spot any, there is nothing too disappointing since the experience of being in the forest is worthwhile.

Unwritten Pages of My Diary Part III

Stockholm – Beauty on Water




Swedes say their country wears a different look in every season. I am glad my tryst with its capital city happened in autumn. For it is during this time that shades of leaves paint the entire country in mesmerizing hues and the weather is just perfect to enjoy long walks in tree-lines streets.



I admire Stockholm for more reasons than one. Picturesque landscape, peace and few people are some of the obvious ones but the city has much more to fall in love with it. I was sure of liking this place as soon as I walked into the Arlanda airport as it wore a comfortable deserted look. Comfortable because of an array of choicest restaurants within the small airport. The city loves food, I thought. That was quite pleasing for my ‘foodie’ instincts! And this was just the beginning of a series of pleasant sights that unfolded one after another as I acquainted myself with the city.

Stockholm is built on 14 islands, which means you are always close to water. This also means that you get to see entire city on a boat and take pride is seeing one of the biggest archipelagos of the Baltic Sea if you visit it in summer or autumn. During winters, it gets better as you can skate and go for excursion trips over the ice. So, if you love water as much as I do, you do not really need another reason to be here. I was enchanted by sheer sight of clean flowing water everywhere I went!

Besides water, the city boasts 75 museums. Two of its museums -- Skansen and Vasa go beyond the imagination of a typical museum. Skansen is world's first outdoor museum, giving you an insight of history of Stockholm. Go to the top of Skansen and you will witness Stockholm’s cityscape. What’s more? It also boasts the city's only zoo, which has a variety of animals like bears, elks, and wolves native to this part of the world. Vasa Museum, on the other hand, gives you a fascinating experience of a different kind. It is built around a fully intact 17th century ship, the 64-gun warship Vasa that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. The museum is said to be one of the most visited ones in Scandinavia.

Sweden is a heavenly bliss for a ‘navigationally challenged’ person like me. The subway system works on two main grids, the green line and red line and it is rather difficult to get confused. All I had to do was to remember that I was putting up at Körsbärsv, which has a simpler English recall name of Cherry Road. Metro stations and bus stops have convenient maps that do not look scary and it is not at all difficult to follow them. Local people around are highly reliable and helpful and almost everyone understands and speaks English. There were a couple of times when I got lost and had no clue where I was supposed to head. But there was something about that place that let me love the idea of getting lost. I walked out of the station and did what I liked doing best there. Promenade. I took long walks on stoned streets, passing some museums, watching colourful buildings, hearing the sound of silence with no other thought in mind but pure admiration of splendor I was experiencing.


Each street in the city is a photographer’s delight with beauty brimming all over. Of all the places, I found Gamla Stan (Old Town) most picturesque. Archaic buildings and cobblestone streets made for a perfect frame and equally perfect reason to fall in love with entire city. I spent quite some time there wandering aimlessly taking a note of structures I saw. The main attractions here are The Royal Palace, Borshuset or the stock exchange building, and the two iconic buildings (from 17th and 18th century) on the Stortorget. The latter ones house restaurants and cafes, which are worth a visit. I went to Kaffekopen, which I think was quite a romantic space, and enjoyed a large cup of coffee and cinnamon rolls.

Stockholm would only have remained half met had I not taken a boat trip to catch a glimpse of entire city at one go. I chose the trip that took me about 2 hours to pass under 15 bridges while viewing all the well-known buildings. It was a guided tour with recorded commentary available in 10 languages. I feel summer would have been a better time as far as archilpelago is concerned when I could have taken a 2 day trip and visited some islands. But not particularly complaining because those couple of hours on water, amidst beauty were breathtaking.

On the whole, the ‘Swedish’ experience was quite gratifying for me. The wanderer in me loved walking miles and miles relishing the beauty of every stone on the cobbled streets. The food aficionado that I am savoured everything from reindeer meat to all types of breads and cheese. Only my shopping instincts had to be put to sleep since Sweden is a very expensive place. Moreover, a couple of absolutely stunning overcoats I picked up at H&M had to be turned down because they carried ‘made in India’ tag! But barring that I’d say – a good camera, love for nature, and comfortable shoes – that is all you need to make the best of each moment you spend in the city.

Unwritten Pages of My Diary Part II

I didn't get the window seat...but the good part is there is nothing to look at outside :) Night sky that is an inspiration for several thoughts when I look at it from my balcony, is less fascinating from here... Sleeping would not be such a bad idea. But the cup of coffee I savoured while observing people at the airport has done the damage and there isn't an iota of sleep in my eyes... Add to that 2 jokers sitting besides me, who wouldn't stop bragging about their experiences of flying to various planets/continents... whatever..."Are you Indian," one of them slimily just asked me. No dimwit...I am African, I say to myself and pretend sleeping.

Hmm...enjoyed forty winks...read some fantastic articles in Financial Times, listened to some silly music, watched a bit of some sillier movies...Also 'How I Met Your Mother' (Hilarious! I think DVDs of 3 seasons are available...Do watch it)...and with that 7 hours on KLM are almost over and the airplane is very close to landing the 'sin city' - Amsterdam...

The connecting flight is 3 hours away. I am gonna utilize this time to do what I do best. Spend money :)It's raining outside and view outside this huge glass window is drop dead gorgeous.

Amsterdam Aiport Schiphol is huge. It's the world's 3rd largest airport by international passenger traffic! And I think most of them are Indian. I see so many Sardar families around...it's not funny.

Unwritten pages of my diary - Part 1

29 Sept, 2008


There are dreams you dream about. There are desires you think you can't afford to think about. Then there are times when these desires comes true even before you can dream about them... And in those moments there is no other way to react but stare at them with amazement...as no amount of excitement can match the intensity of those moments... Speechless, excited, thrilled - are quite an unworthy words to describe the feeling of the night I was about to fly...

Here goes excerpts from my diary that should have been written long ago.

I am flying off to Stockholm tonight for 5 days. Paid trip...to meet the princess of Sweden. It'll be the first time I'll be entering an airport. Excited...am I?

It's just 4 days ago when I first heard about this junket. From searching for the exact location of Stockholm on map to seeing my baggage ready in front of my eyes right now - it has been a long journey already. I feel like closing my eyes and embracing all the moments and little journeys that await me.

As a little child whenever I bid good-bye to several airplanes that passed our playground (my school being near IGI airport) it literally meant so. They were very far away.

Not anymore...I am flying tonight :)

We are heading towards the airport now. Mom, dad and MegDi are quite excited. Sadly, Meg-di is in office but she is very much with me. I have heard about the formalities, to be done inside, quite carefully. But I'm quite sure I'll still make a fool of myself. Dekhi jayegi. Mom is clicking my picture outside the airport and m little embarrassed :P
I wish I could take her along. Someday I will... For right now it's goodbye ma for 5 days :)

Papers signed. Baggage given for checking. And here i meet my colleague who is travelling along. She has been to Europe before but never to any Scandinavian country. After some wait we are finally progressing towards the plane.

So this is it. It is 'the' moment...it will stay alive in my mind forever. Nothing can take it away from me. And I won't describe it further. It will dilute the experience.

I am flying...


To be contd. :)

The Mumbai I Know

I met Mumbai in September last year for a very brief time. About a week. I admired her from the very moment I saw her. It was 6:15 am when my eyes were still drowsy. But there she was - bubbly, zesty, vivacious...so full of life. It would be an interesting tryst, I was sure right then. I couldn't have been wrong. I am yet to meet to someone who'd have disliked her after being with her for sometime.
I decided there itself that I'll call her 'she'. She has to be a woman to be so nurturing and giving. Plus she is so beautiful and charming. But 'vulnerable'? That is not a trait I associated with her then. I still don't. Perhaps they did. Surprised how her charisma did not lure them.


I had work in the building exactly opposite the VT station. And wasn't I as fascinated to see VT as Bollywood shows people, with big dreams who come to Mumbai, are? More than fascinated, I'd say. Several movies would be made now, featuring the station albeit in a different light.
The memory of a couple of hours I spent in Leopold Cafe is quite crisp in my heart. It was my friend, a former Mumbaiker's suggestion to go there. "Your trip would not be complete unless you go there. You have to see it to believe it," were somewhat her words. And I couldn't thank her enough. Though I do not generally like noisy places, this space was different. "The music here is very loud usually," shouted my friend. I could barely hear her. I get shivers thinking that a year later, one night the silence would more deafening than the music they usually play.
Gateway of India is a few steps away. It was about 11 pm and we walked. I can still feel the mischief in air saying that it was about to bring some shower. The monument, I must say, looked very graceful that rainy night. And then I saw another iconic building - The Taj Mahal Hotel. As I write, I can just think of a white building with red top and rising black smoke...
So I just close my eyes and think about the beauty I have great admiration for. And I see... the promenade beside the majestic Queen's Necklace (or Marine Drive), my guest house at NepeanSea Road, Bhel Puri at Chowpatty, talkative waves at Worli, rocks at Bandra beach, cheerful people enjoying Jumbo King vada pav, bargaining for a trendy t-shirt at Fashion Street...I see a modest Haji Ali standing beautifully in Worli waters, some immodest people pushing you in Zaveri Bazaar and a crowd dancing away to glory in lighted streets (celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi)...Her beauty is apparent in everything she is made of.

I wonder if little Moshe Holtzberg would ever think of her like that.

Music to ears

Destinations do not fascinate me. Journeys do. Traveling is anytime better than 'arriving'.

These thoughts in mind and headphones in my ear are often my companion on my way to work. Most of the time I wish I could just travel and reach nowhere. Alas that is just a wish. Being aware that arriving is important (and inevitable in most cases) I try to make most of each minute I walk towards my destination. It's easy for me as I reach another destination on my route to the physical one.

The transformation to the other world is absolute. No wonder I can never remember directions and routes. I am never there. (This calls for another blog entry, which I think should discourage people from asking me to be aware of directions)

It takes almost 25 minutes and Rs 50 to reach my office by an auto-rickshaw. Traveling by bus is lot cheaper and better as it takes more time but the scorching heat forces me to shell out extra bucks and compromise on extra time. Getting into a rickshaw and putting on earphones and a scarf is almost mechanical now. Earphones connect me to music that takes me into the world of my own and the scarf protects me from killer pollution and some stares that intervene my thought process.

I think music is a very significant part of what I call a good journey. Good numbers - English or Hindi - always lift my spirits no matter how distressed I have been. While a 'dil dance maare' amuses me, 'It must have been love' brings back some past memories. There are songs which help taking a leap into some future event.

A wedding song invariably puts me to imagining what it'd be like when my elder sis would be dressed as a bride. What follows comes to an end only when I am forced to come back as I reach the office gate.

Some days are lucky when radio channels play songs other than the ones that are 'hit' these days. Those bring back memories of some wonderful days that are always worth recalling. For instance, 'Jaadu hai nasha hai' from the movie Jism takes me back to 2002 when I used to admire a cute guy in tuition classes. The thought brings a smile even when everything around looks quite grim.

Incidentally, my notion of having two left feet was disillusioned recently at a party where I was complimented for being a good dancer. Before that I used to dream of some flexi moves and grooves during such journeys. I continue to do so except I feel dancing is no longer just my dream world's prerogative. It is no longer in the list of things I do just for me.

So, a 'Hips don't lie' now brings in the party animal in me which I thougt never existed.

I am not sure if this post really makes sense or conveys what I want to say. "Waiting on the world to change" by John Mayer playing on radio right now.....