Amritsar hasn’t meant much more to me than the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and Wagah Border and Amritsari naan. However, in the last trip, I got a chance to acquaint myself with the 450-year-old heritage of Amritsar with The Heritage Walk started by Punjab Tourism Board.
Starting at 8 in the morning, an hour long walk, covering about 3 kms, can surprise you with little-known facets of the holy city. Our guide begins by telling us that Amritsar was established by Guru Ramdas and nurtured by Guru Arjan Dev and later by Maharaja Ranjit Singh.
Starting at 8 in the morning, an hour long walk, covering about 3 kms, can surprise you with little-known facets of the holy city. Our guide begins by telling us that Amritsar was established by Guru Ramdas and nurtured by Guru Arjan Dev and later by Maharaja Ranjit Singh.
Historical Sites
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| Saragarhi Gurudwara |
The Saragarhi Gurdwara is a proof of the Sikh martyrdom. A marble stone fixed on the wall of the Gurdwara has names engraved of the Sikh soldiers who died in the defense of the frontier Fort of Saragarhi in 1897, fighting against the Pathans.
You then move to walking in the narrow streets of the old city that are abuzz with activities during the peak hours. But early in the morning, history comes alive and you travel back in time. It’s hair-raising to imagine the gruesome bloodbath when you think of it in this serene environment. And while you are lost on those thoughts, the 'Crawling Street' gives you goose bumps. It is the street where Indians were made to crawl after the infamous General Dyer got to know that a British missionary was beaten by residents, irked by the arrest of their leaders Dr Saifudeen Kitchlu and Dr Satpal by the British.
Another spot that catches one’s attention is Thakurdwara of Rai Kishan Chand. The marvelous architecture on its walls, the frescos and paintings leave you awestruck. Descendents of Rai Kishan Chand Sapra still own the building. The unfortunate part is that no efforts have been made by the government to restore its glory. An old caretaker tells us how several pleas have just fallen flat.
Another glorious site included in the walk is the Taksal where Sikh regime coins were minted during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Today, it lies as a deserted house with a torn banner hanging outside the building.
While you take so much of history in, stop by at the famous Jalebiwala Chowk to enjoy delicious jalebis.
Golden Temple & Jallianwala Bagh
The walk would be incomplete with a visit to the Harmandir Sahab better known as the Golden Temple. The temple has four gates as if welcoming people from all sides, representing the liberal character of Sikhism. The large lake of water, the Sarovar, surrounding it is said to be consisting of amrit, which means holy nectar. This explains the city's name.
A short walk from the Golden Temple leads you to the site that is reminiscent of the monstrous massacre years ago – Jallianwala Bagh. The narrow path between the houses may not give a hint of the legacy stored inside. There are remnants of walls preserved to show the bullet holes and you can peep into the Martyrs' Well, where several people jumped in while trying to escape from bullets.
Little Disappointments
The initiative taken by the tourism board is undoubtedly appreciable but there are certain blanks to be filled. For starters, the streets so rich in heritage and history have been poorly maintained. It’s sad to see dilapidated state of most of the buildings. Thakurdwara, for instance, is in dire need of restoration. Further, there are loose wires hanging all over. Poor quality roads and dirt on the street make it more unattractive. The entire area demands good maintenance if not restoration.
While the guides do a good job of informing you about the heritage, it would be a good idea to get a historian to give a context to some of the information provided. However, it is still worth an experience.
2 comments:
could very well associate wid your views abt the city of amritsar. my knowledge of amirtsar is still limited to the golden temple, wagaha border n jallian wala bagh. this was pretty nice it did give me new things to look for, in case i make it to tht place once again
thanks satish!
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